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VANDA MARY
SANDERS HOWDEN (nee
FISKE) Autobiography
Printed Oct 1980. Followed by
Eulogy.
Compiled and Edited Aug 2000
by son Dr. Patrick ffyske Howden, BackYard TEch, Cone St,
Macleay Island, 4184,
Australia. Tel/Fax: (07) 34095100.
According to
authoritative text I have - "Fiske Family Papers" -
Family Fiske are traced back to about 100 years after mid
Viking times. Scottish background Father's name Howden is
found the same as a Yorkshire moor, weir, town... as well as a
Norwegian village etc - an indication of similar Viking
descent.
Victoria
Street, Kensington, London is a narrow little street and on a
corner half way down and still standing is a small old
Georgian style 2 storey, basement house in which I was born.
My Mother, who was born Grace Baldry, told me my Father,
William Fiske, had straw strewn up and down the road to make
the horse drawn carriages less noisy for my Mother, who was
very ill - one cannot imagine what the noise is like from the
present traffic.
My Mother
was an artist, one of 13 children who lived in an old manor
house in Norfolk and who, due to my Grandfather's leaning
towards music rather than attaining a lucrative living, they
were extremely poor. My Father, William Sanders Fiske, was the
second son of Thomas and Elizabeth. The family consisted of
Alice a nurse, Edith who helped to keep house, Dr. Thomas
Fiske and Ada who appeared ta do odd jobs. I never knew my
Grandfather who died before I was born, but my Grandmother
lived many years. They were Plymouth Brethren and lived in
Parkstone near Bournemouth. My Grandmother wore black clothes
and a white starched cap with tails from the time my
Grandfather died, also a stiff 2" wide black leather belt
with all the household keys on it; even salt was locked up! I
only met my Mother's Father once when I drove my Mother down
to Littlehampton to see him and we took him, aged 96, for his
first drive in a car at a steady 10mph. He was a small man
with a good sense of humour and could still play many tunes
from operas from memory on his violin at his advanced age. He
must have been impecunious and quite happy go lucky and my
Father regularly gave my Mother 7/6 a week to buy a postal
note for him for tobacco money.
I have never
known where and how my Father and Mother met. I heard that my
Grandmother wanted my Father to become an architect and
certainly he had a facility in drawing, though he left home
for London and managed to put himself through Law School by
working in the Law firm of Gedge Fiske & Co. He and my
Mother must have met in London at this time and she had a
studio near Lancaster Gate. They were married at St. Matthews
Church, Bayswater on August 25th, 1897 and lived at 8 Leinster
Mansions, Hampstead. They are buried in Highgate Cemetery,
London. (When I visited graves early 1970s, someone else's
graves had been attended to all those decades - ed).
My Mother's
Brother, Harry Baldry, whom I never met, was also an artist
and I believe he has portraits at Windsor Castle.
He died of
tuberculosis when quite young, but he and my Mother did go to
Italy to paint and there she was greatly influenced by the
Italian painters Titian and Tintoretto. I believe nearly all
her family was either artistic or musical and she herself was
a very clever portrait painter, particularly as she had never
been able to afford lessons. She exhibited in the Royal
Academy in London, and was "hung on the line" as
they called the first row of pictures. She told me she met a
Jewish lady who introduced her to many people for portraits
and in this way she was able to do well painting people such
as Lord Mayors English Cities.
Finally she
was able to take herself and 2 sickly sisters over to Canada
for them to be in a more suitable climate. She herself
returned to England and must have married my Father shortly
afterwards. Two less-alike characters would be hard to find,
my father from a religious and very strict family and my
Mother from a Bohemian upbringing in a talented artistic and
musical family. My Father was a very clever man and passed his
law exams about eighth in England and frequently won prizes.
My Mother I believe had little or no education; she could read
and write, add up a little and that was all. My father was shy
and very reserved, my Mother all extrovert and could have made
an amusing comedy actress. Besides painting she could play any
music by ear and had a very attractive contralto voice. They
had one son, my Brother Guy; oddly enough I cannot remember
anything about him in early years.
Earliest
recollections are of our 2-storey house in Wimbledon just at
the top of the hill. It had the normal back walled garden with
a large tree in it. I can remember the cork-floored nursery
with its fire and brass fireguard and Nanny carrying me up the
stairs. Also I was allowed to peep through the banisters when
my parents entertained. I can remember my Mother pushing me
out in a big pram and when we came across some gipsies in
their caravan she sang the song to me about:
"My
Mother said I never should
Talk to the
gipsies in the wood
If I did,
she would say
Come along
gipsies and take her away".
This
literally terrified me, whereas I had loved their brightly
coloured caravans previously. I can remember being fed largely
on Plasmon biscuits soaked in milk for supper. It must have
been the 'pre-baby food' fad for children.
I never
asked why we moved to Kensington, but I suppose Wimbledon was
a long way for my Father to travel to the City to work, though
the flat we moved to was really unsuitable for children. It
was on the 7th floor of Albert Hall Mansions, opposite the
Albert Hall - I think No. 68. Almost at once I was sent to my
Brother's boarding school, St.Clare at Walmer, Kent. I was the
only girl, only 4 years old and there was a very nice elderly
maid called Sarah who mostly seemed to look after me.
I can
remember the lamplighters in the streets of London lighting
the gas lamps and also our chimneys being cleaned by a chimney
sweep and all the fuss and preparations to cover the furniture
and clean up afterwards.
There were
also the fire brigades drawn by horses and the excitement and
clatter they produced.
I had
lessons with the boys and was learning French at the age of
five. I got on with them all very well. Strangely enough
during World War 2 in Australia at a cocktail party for a
visiting RN ship HMS Ramillies, I met a Commander Waters who
had also been at St.Clare and remembered my maiden name. He
told me he had given me a brass ring at the age of six or
seven!
The only bad
events at this School were when I tried to pat an old white
horse mowing the playing field. It turned and bit me on the
cheek and another event, going with the boys and being 'dared'
to watch pigs being slaughtered in a farm next door and
standing on something to see over the wall and falling off in
a terrible state on seeing the poor pig.
Very early
in life my Brother and I spent a summer at our family friend's
place, Mrs.Price and her unmarried daughter Dody at Pinner,
Harrow. In those days there were hay fields across the Road
and our garden was huge, so we often had afternoon tea
outdoors and I have photos of us there with my Brother dressed
up as Bonnie Prince Charlie. I remained friends with Dody
Price right up to several years after my marriage and she was
living in Eastbourne with an old friend of hers and I took
Merlin and Patrick down to see her when we were in England
(when? 1930s).
I was really
happy at St.Clare. I saw little of my Brother who was 4 years
older, nor can I remember any of the staff other than Sarah
who cared for me, or the journeys to and from school.
Later I was
sent to the Junior House of Roedean School, Brighton and I
well remember my first term when I was 'put into Coventry' by
the other girls for some reason entirely unknown to myself. No
one spoke to me unless told to do so by a teacher and I hated
them all after the friendly little boys I had been used to. I
could not understand girls who pulled one's hair and pinched.
However,
eventually I made some friends, two of whom are still my
friends today - Kathleen Archer, Mrs.Gemmill of Rhodesia and
Kitty Owen, an American girl, now Mrs.Spence of New York.
Kitty and I, when at the Senior School, were caught climbing
on the roof of the Chapel by the Head Mistress, Miss Laurence,
but she only reminded us that it was her responsibility to see
we did not kill ourselves at School!
During the
War we took a dislike to all foreigners and a poor Belgian
girl, Yvonne de Jaeger, got a fearful teasing and was shut in
the underneath pipe lines and given only an apple and told to
crawl the length of the school to get out. However I think she
was let out sooner, or I hope so!
Kathleen and
Kitty were in the Junior School at my age; other friends I
made in the Senior House later. Kitty was a wonderful girl,
extremely pretty, so unusual in a schoolgirl, curly blonde
hair, blue eyes and a lovely figure. She was extremely
talented in the arts, could play anything by ear on the piano
and also play made up tunes as she went along. She was
excellent at dancing and also a gymnast. I don't think she was
good at the 3 Rs, but she could write poetry and draw and
paint.
At home life
was pleasant until World War I. My Mother and Father gave very
small dinner parties at times. I can only remember a few of
the people; one was a Turk whom my parents called T.T. for the
Terrible Turk who spoke fluent English. Another was a
Mr.Wilson Lovatt, a businessman from Wolverhampton and a
longstanding friend, Mrs. and Miss Remer, also our family
doctor Dr.Cutler, who lived in a lovely old Georgian home
nearby. My Mother painted his father's portrait from an old
photograph. Our flat was solid but very ugly; the front hall
had a full-length mirror with a huge window box of aspidistras
in it and I or my Mother washed their leaves in milk from time
to time. All walls were papered in dark brown - my Mother
thought that showed off pictures well - except the dining room
which had scarlet walls and black carved wood furniture.
The drawing
room was upholstered in gold and held my Mother's piano with a
gold curtain hanging down its back and a 5ft high black wooden
stand holding a large brass container with yet another
aspidistra! Drawing room and dining room had narrow balconies
and our canary hung in its cage whenever it was sunny outside.
I used to be sent down to High Street Kensington to buy a
pennyworth of groundsell from the old bonneted lady selling it
in the street.
I cannot
remember any children coming to play with us and although my
Grandmother sent me a really lovely doll and made a satin cape
and frock for it with hood edged with fluffy stuff, I put it
away and loved only my old Teddy Bear. I longed for animals
and eventually we got a little dog from Derry & Toms
Store, a Yorkshire Terrier whom I called Curly, though, no
doubt due to incorrect feeding, Curly developed skin troubles
and was sent to my cousin's gamekeeper in Axmouth Devon where
he had a very happy life.
During the
holidays my brother and I were sent to Kensington Gardens to
sail our boats. Guy was quite fearless and launched his off to
the middle of the Round Pond with gay abandon. It always
returned safely, whereas I was terrified I would lose mine
becalmed in the middle and timidly pushed it out about 2 feet
where it was immediately becalmed and I became frantic. Aside
from this occupation our only other amusement in holidays was
to use one pair of roller skates between us, my Brother's on
his right foot and mine on my left and go round and round the
Albert Hall pavements.
I know I was
taken on one grand occasion at Christmas to see a play, which
was 'Pinkie and the Fairies', my first play and I can remember
being absolutely spellbound, but I cannot recall any of the
play.
I know we
must have been rather poor in those days. My Mother made most
of her frocks with the help of a dear old lady called Mrs.Pell
who eventually made, with my Mother, all my school uniforms
for Roedean. This made me feel very singled out at school, as
I was the only girl I knew of who did not have embroidery on
the top of her after school frock. I think it must have been
difficult for my Father to meet our boarding school fees. My
Mother often 'turned' her coat and skirts to wear them longer.
My Mother
and Father had totally different characters. My Mother was an
extrovert and loved theatres and concerts and going out; my
Father hated going out and loved his books and antiques and a
very quiet life. My Mother took me to church on Sundays and on
Sunday afternoons we nearly always went to a very high up seat
in a gallery next to the organ at the Albert Hall Sunday's
Concert. So every holiday I had access to good music, although
my Brother was far more musical than I was and could play from
ear like my Mother. I cannot remember him going to concerts
with us. My Mother could sing also. I remember also, watching
the suffragettes having a rally at the Albert Hall and
Christabel Pankhurst being arrested, all or which we could see
from our balcony.
In the
afternoons my Mother had a 'rest' and my Brother and I lay on
the floor with books and a pillow, plus seven toiled sugar
sweets each. The floor was supposed to be good for our backs
but I think all the books we read probably did us more good!
The great
excitement of the year was Christmas and our cousin Maud
Stephens in Devonshire sent us up a big hamper of food,
usually pheasants and salmon and fruit and vegetables from her
estate.
Oddly enough
for an artist my Mother was an excellent cook, but we also had
a dear cook-cum-general factotum, Mary Anne Lee from the
Presentation Convent in Mullingar, Ireland. Her two sisters
who were married also knew us, but they traded upon poor Mary
Anne who gave them all her salary and nearly kept all their
children. She was a most remarkable person, dark with a high
colour and a terrific sense of humour. She scoured the flat on
the day-a-week cleaning day, with damp tealeaves (eliminates
mites!) on the floor and a hard broom.
If I was at
home I polished furniture, in particular a large old mahogany
chest in the hall on which my Mother loved to keep a brass
bowl with marigolds brightly reflected in the polished
mahogany.
Mary Anne
had her spaniel dog Shawnie over from Ireland but he wasn't
trained for traffic and lay down in Kensington High Street. On
sending him home she hadn't heard if he had arrived and sent a
telegram 'DID DOG ARRIVE AND WHAT WAS HIS FARE?' to the Mother
Superior.
I visited
the Presentation Convent once when I was on holiday and stayed
in Mullingar at a little old inn with candlelight and had
lunch with the Nuns and had to help them nail flags to a pole
for a fete as they nailed their fingers.
In our
August holidays my Father twice took us across to Oost in
Belgium where we had endless fun on the sandy beaches and
riding down the sandhills. Our parents played golf together,
my Mother on the handicap of 7 and my Father about 14, as no
doubt he had less time to play. We sometimes had an old friend
Mr.Cresskey with us who also golfed. I thought it was all
heaven and took years getting over my disappointment at not
going in the year the 1st World War broke out. In fact, our
picnic basket and trunk of clothes went off in advance and, of
all things, the basket was returned to us after the War 5
years later, undamaged!
My Father
joined up as a 'Special Constable' (like ARP Warden) at nights
and also paid for a Canteen for soldiers on Purfleet Rifle
Range at the Docks. My Mother ran this Canteen and clad in
long skirt, boots, a blouse and old coat did all the work
herself. In holidays I went down with her and have a photo of
myself serving out sweets that were 5 for 1d. We had hot cocoa
and pies and sandwiches of a sort with tea. After a while I
noticed the men we served becoming older and worse in health
and I, who was taught to shoot at school could have done
better. One poor old fellow had epileptic fits; I was shocked
to see him. My Mother was extremely fitted to run this
canteen; she could make anyone laugh and had masses of comic
stories and was kindness itself. I was usually so tired at the
end of a day that I fell asleep on the train seat coming home;
also it was so cold in winter.
Another
expedition was to get up at 4 a.m. and go to Covent Garden
Market and buy for the Canteen and fruit and vegetables for
ourselves. My Mother made excellent jams and marmalades. My
Mother and Brother and I all did SANDOW exercises in our
bathroom every morning; it was very popular in those days and
consisted of two handles attached to long elastic ropes which
were attached to the wall and you pulled against the elastic.
After that my Mother and I had to plunge into a cold bath
winter and summer. I hated the whole procedure and I doubt if
it did anyone any good.
During the
War I was at home in the holidays until the air raids. I
remember vividly one raid. We had guests for dinner and Mary
Anne had cooked sprats, when the sirens went and the guns at
Marble Arch started to fire. For some reason we all went out
on to our back verandah where our ice chest was kept and in
the sky I -'saw the Zeppelin on fire, which came down at
Cuffley near Enfield. Then we were whisked down seven flights
of stairs to the basement where we sat and ate sprats amongst
the hot water pipes. (apparently she quick-sketched such event
to fill-paint later - ed). A bomb fell in Exhibition Road next
street to ours and I can still remember its 'whistle' as it
came down and wondering if I'd be alive. I was literally
terrified. Next day we saw the immense crater it made, luckily
missing the Science and Natural History and Victoria &
Albert Museums.
After that
it was decided we should go to my Grandmother's home at
Parkstone for holidays, which I hated as, although she never
scolded, she was severe and my Auntie Alice even more so.
However my Auntie Ada really liked having us and took us to
the roller skating rink in Bournemouth and let us have what we
liked for lunch, which was always tongue and a large piece of
cake. My Grandfather had been a dear old gentleman -Thomas
Fiske - and my Mother had painted his portrait. Yet she and my
Grandmother had nothing in common, despite my Mother being
very good to my Aunties, ensuring they got nice warm
eiderdowns for their beds, stopping the cuckoo clock in the
hall so it did not wake everyone up. My Grandmother being deaf
never heard it anyway!
My Auntie
Alice, Uncle Tom and Auntie Edith had gone off to Aylesbury
(stone circles - ed) at one stage, where he was a doctor and
Alice a nurse whilst Edith housekept. But my Grandmother sent
for them all to come back as she said as a 'widow she needed
them'. My Auntie Edith was very nice looking and the Estate
Agent of a big property near Aylesbury that he looked after
had asked her to marry him, which she wanted to do.
Unfortunately he had a title and my Grandmother refused to
allow her to do so, saying 'You are not to set your cap at a
person so far above you' - so poor Edith never married neither
any of the daughters.
Their
drawing room was a mass of small tables to hold all sorts of
little ornaments called 'What nots' plus a very slippery
horsehair sofa on which we had to sit to hear prayers and
Bible reading from the family Bible by my Uncle Tom before
breakfast each day. Servants came up from the kitchen for it.
Everyone disliked this formality except for Granny, to whom it
was a lifelong institution. After her death it was
discontinued in the household.
At the back
of their house they had a croquet lawn and a little
summerhouse where Granny sat and watched us all play. This we
enjoyed. I offered to help my Uncle Tom weed his garden, but
was only allowed to do so on great sufferance as he grew prize
carnations each tied up to a stick with one bloom on each. So
reminiscent of the family, my Mother thought.
After the
War we went to Sandbanks, a peninsula out of Poole Harbour and
used to bicycle over to see Granny, a very exhausting hill
climb, but lovely going back.
At school we
had terrible food in World War I, usually rice thrice daily,
as a cereal for breakfast, with tiny bits of mince in it for
dinner and again as a cereal for supper, with black treacle
over it. No fruit and few vegetables. We were mostly all very
thin and very hungry. I remember throwing a breadboard across
a room because I couldn't get any more bread.'
At school I
was reasonably good at sports. I remember our 2nd
Eleven-Cricket team won every match against other schools one
summer. I loved the sports and am still interested in Cricket
and at school we played Hockey and Lacrosse, but not Tennis at
that time. (For years before she died, there was little else
on her TV or radio but sports, frequently all night - ed). We
had a good swimming pool and learnt at the end of a moving
pole with belt attached. It was a covered enclosed pool so we
had rings we could swing on above it. In winter the senior
girls learnt shooting there with extraordinarily out of
alignment rifles. Also we learnt carpentering and in the war
made crutches for wounded men, never 2 crutches the same
height! We also knitted what were called 'Serbian Squares' -
no-one could make out what for. Later we were told they were
for Serbs to use as saddle cloths.
My great joy
was the studio where I learnt painting and clay modelling. I
loved gymnastics and was in my House Team. I didn't like
learning piano and rarely tried to practice. Yet I liked
singing in the choir (extremely badly). We had a very
beautiful Chapel.
It was
decided that I should do Senior Cambridge Exam rather than
Matric, as it included Art as a subject and I was so poor at
Maths. We had a great many subjects: English, History,
Geography, Chemistry, Botany, Art, French and French
conversation and Arithmetic. We were taught Elocution and
Scripture. For the former a formidable lady came down from the
College of Dramatic Art in London to hear us read an unseen
passage to her individually. I think most of us could read
well and grammar classes were very strict.
Unless we
had to go to a dentist or it was half term, we stayed in the
school grounds the whole term, though we never felt
'enclosed'. There was one outlet, a tunnel to the beach in the
cliffs followed by awful rocks to walk on in the sea, with at
least 360 steps to climb back up the tunnel. The only other
outings were free Thursdays, when we went careering over the
Sussex Downs led and chased by 2 teachers on a 'Scout run' -
we literally ran all the way for 2.5 hours non stop up hill
and down dale and drank almost a basin of water on return. I
know I should have stayed on another year as I was very
immature, but all my friends who were mostly 18 were leaving,
although I was just 17. Only Kathleen Archer remained on and
became a Senior Prefect.
I can
remember I was anything but happy at home, lonely for my
school friends. However, I decided I must do something and my
Father and I went to see a little hospital down at the Docks
where I could train to nurse. There was small pox down there
and my Father was anxious about me living in a room nearby, so
that idea fell through. I started working one day a week
voluntarily at a Creche for poor children off Nottinghill Gate
in a slum area (where lady friend Paddy and I lived 1969-73 -
ed).
This was an
eye opener for me, the children were delightful, aged about 3
months to 6 years, yet so dirty and tattered and ill fed. We
changed their clothes to our own and washed them and took lice
out of their hair, fed them, played games, gave them a rest on
stretchers and taught them songs and plays. One little fellow,
Billy, really got to me, he was hopelessly retarded mentally,
still he always knew me and clung to me like a little dog. I
learned he had three mental sisters and the Mother was mental
also. Several children came from families with TB and yet had
to pick up drink from a nearby pub for their parents on their
way home. Only the Matron was a paid worker and she a very
wonderful woman.
My Mother
and I painted in one of the Museums. As long as one copied a
picture one could use the Museum almost as a studio. I also
started at the Chelsea Art School and was horrified at my
first life drawing class to be confronted by a nude model
playing tennis against a wall. I had no idea how to draw her
if she had remained stationary, let alone if moving! I learnt
a great deal there from drawing front casts, but eventually it
had to be given up, as my Mother had not been well for some
time with heart trouble and arthritis.
I started
Spanish lessons and could speak and read quite well. So she
and I went overseas on a ship via Panama to Los Angeles to
stay with a very nice American couple at Santa Barbara in a
charming little house at Montecito. Each day breakfast on the
patio with dinner at a quiet restaurant nearby. My Mother gave
them instructions in Art. I went down to Los Angeles and
stayed with a delightful elderly American lady we knew and for
the first time ate pickled peaches before sleeping in a four
poster bed with white chiffon curtains. Then I met again a
Swiss boy I had been friendly with, Rene Fix, the last time I
saw him for many years. He was to die in a car crash in Brazil
some years later.
My Mother
and I also fitted in a visit to Japan our way to Hong Kong and
home. We met a very nice couple from Chicago and travelled
with them. We were shocked to see the devastation in Tokyo
caused by the tremendous earthquake they had. Our hotel being
of reinforced concrete was the only one standing and
everywhere tramlines were buckled and upended. Oddly enough
the little fragile looking Japanese houses of paper and wood
were frequently still standing
We carried
on to Nikko which is so beautiful surrounded by trees with a
red lacquer bridge and very ancient temples. On our train to
Kyoto we sampled the Japanese lunch boxes of matchwood, bought
through the train window. Inside was raw fish which none of us
could eat, although it was considered a delicacy. The women's
kimonos were beautiful and their little shoes much more
colourful than the clothes in China.
We found a
curved narrow all devoted to shops selling teapots. We were a
bit disappointed that although the cherry blossom in parks was
lovely they had no lawns, only pebbles on the ground.
I had been
out to the winter sports at Klosters and Davos with a friend
of my Mother's and her family, Violet Kidd, but I caught
measles and had to remain at Klosters whilst they went on to
Davos. My Mother came out to be with me and we became friendly
with an Australian girl Linda Giddings (nee McMaster) and her
husband. They introduced me (I was 18) to an Australian man
Harry who was later to become my husband. But I went on up to
Davos and again had bad luck injuring my knee in a heavy fall.
I was so disappointed as I loved skiing and had climbed the
Buhlenhorn Mountain with a party of skiers. Only 2 guides, 2
men and myself got to the top. The view was marvellous, but as
so often happens on mountaintops there was an icy wind that
made our lunch break rather miserable. The guide had to help
me down a good deal. My Mother again came to meet me in Paris
where followed a bad heart attack. A French doctor told her
how very ill she was, as she never bothered to take care of
herself.
Several
times I went with her overseas in winter because of her acute
arthritis; twice to Biskra in Algeria where the legendary
Garden of Allah is situated. It is a date plantation watered
by artificial little channels running between palms and very
lovely brilliant bougainvillea trailing over white walls of a
small building in the garden.
I painted in
the Market Place and several Arabs came up to watch and were
intrigued. One had a bandage over an eye and when I asked to
see it he showed me a badly infected eye. So I set off to a
chemist and bought ordinary Boracic powder plus an eye glass
with distilled water and showed the Arab how to rinse the eye
at least four times daily and to keep it open, never bandaged
and in three days it was well.
We became
friendly with some German girls and a Polish girl there, the
latter named Eveline Woyniewicz, whom I think with her
husband, were killed by the Germans during the War, and their
Estate confiscated. We all learnt to ride, though one day the
guide brought me a very difficult horse that bolted straight
away. How I remained on it I really can't imagine, except that
I was athletic and finally thought I'd pull on one rein with
both hands until its head was almost looking over its
shoulder. This finally stopped it. I found out from the Police
that it was a horse ridden by the army and accustomed to
galloping off into the blue directly it was out of Biskra.
This habit should have prevented it being used by tourists.
An
interesting person we met at the hotel was Elizabeth whose
complexion really needed all her products, as it was like
leather:
We also met
a friend of H.G.Wells, Odette Keun, who was very kind to me,
as she knew my Father who had become H.G.Wells' solicitor. She
was a French authoress who lived in Wells' south of France
home. She was quite ugly, but immensely attractive, vivacious
and interesting. My Father came out for a short holiday at
this time and it was a rest for him, although I don't think
there was much to interest him in Biskra. It was a colourful
time with the French Foreign Legion in the Town and the Arab
Spahis in their red burnoose robes. We saw a kind of military
tattoo, the Arabs on magnificent horses riding at full gallop
across the desert.
At nights
the German girls and we went on camels to visit anything: Arab
encampments to eat their highly flavoured 'Cous-cous'. These
were hotter than Indian curries with small pieces of lamb or
goat in the cereal. We saw many caravans setting off for
Timbucktoo further south. Claire Sheridan the author was also
there.
After one of
these overseas trips my Mother and I returned to find that my
Father had bought a tiny piece of land in Hyde Park Gate,
Kensington and built a rather pretty house there, with a roof
garden and greenhouse on top of it. It was in the same little
cul-de-sac where Winston Churchill retired and where the
famous sculptor Epstein lived.
The drawback
to the house was that it was right on top of the pavement and
the traffic from the main road High Street, Kensington,
thundered day and night. So my Father and Mother changed rooms
as she did not mind it so much. My Brother had a room upstairs
with the piano in it. Regrettably he was not working and had
only had a few rare months of work here and there. He was very
clever and had passed all law exams until his finals, which he
refused to take (like Conrad for years at Uni - ed). My Father
put him into a business as manager of a big bus garage as Guy
was very mechanically minded. This again fell through. He and
I never had a quarrel or dispute, he was such an easy going
fellow, though his romance with Violet Kidd broken off by her
father when Guy did not do his final law exams, seemed to
shatter his whole life. This was when I was only 16 and
obviously of no help to him.
At this time
I set off each day to a secretarial course, leaving when my
Father went to work. The course was in Regent Street near the
Polytechnic. There I met a lifelong friend there Phyllis
Colebrook, also doing the course. We would lunch at odd little
teashops near the British Museum. We both finished the course
and she went on to a job whilst I decided to go to the Regent
Street Polytechnic to study sculpture - again I was dismayed
to find myself in a class with students working for the Prix
de Rome, huge full size statues. However, another girl and I
were started on just the model's head, other days doing
drapery in clay. I really loved the work.
My Mother
and I had been to Italy and on the way back we stayed in
Holland when I was 18. There we met a family named Van
Doesburg of the Dutch biscuit family. The two sisters, Nolly
and Marguerite (Peggy) became lifelong friends and were
forever trying to instigate a marriage between their brother
Richard and I. He and I danced in London whenever he was in
England, but I never fancied living in Holland although I
liked visiting the country so much.
Another
lifelong friend was Simone Reutlinger from Paris. She stayed
with me in London in our former flat there. We met them at
Saint Briac in Brittany on a summer holiday. Whilst my Father
and Mother golfed, Simone and I went for swims and met
friends. With her parents we set off to see lovely old French
places, such Mont Saint Michel joined to the mainland by a
causeway, where we had the best 'omelettes' I had ever tasted
at a little French restaurant built into the cliff face below
the Abbey. My Mother was very good to Aime Reutlinger when she
was taken ill in the hotel and in return they invited me over
to Paris for a holiday.
My Father
liked the husband very much, as he was interested in antiques
too, although a photographer by career. I think I was 18 when
I stayed with them and still had hair down my back: They had a
tiny little flat in the Champs de Mars near the Eiffel Tower
and there I lived a completely French life. Only Simone and
her father spoke English, so I had to learn French. Sundays I
went with Simone to Mass and then we met all her young friends
and walked in the Bois de Boulogne, and in the afternoons to
Museums with Monsieur Reutlinger. I can remember seeing Marie
Antoinette's shoes, about our size 2 - I thought they were for
a child.
If Simone
was invited to a Ball, her parents and her grandmother came as
our chaperones. She was allowed to invite her young friends
and cousins to her flat where she played the piano and sang
songs. We danced in her room about 15ft x 10ft. In the
mornings rugs were rolled up and we did dusting and cleaning
with dusters on our feet, which polished the floors! Then we
went to the Markets and brought back their staple foods,
always steak with watercress for dinners and often a cheese
omelette followed - absolutely delicious. Simone's eldest
brother was killed in the War and her younger one only called
round once; he was considered the 'black sheep of the family'
and there was a terrible row.
Our main
occupation was to get Simone married and her father had
decided upon a young army officer named Milliot, who was about
half Simone's height and whom she called 'Le petit Milliot'.
There was an extraordinary old lift in the flats of rattling
wire like a cage. Simone insisted on the 'petit Milliot' going
down on his knees and begging for her hand in marriage in the
lift! I was covered in confusion, as I felt he was serious
whereas Simone was joking - so on his knees he went.
Simone's
family were all enchanting. George and Georgette Demontmorot,
cousins with a baby girl to whose apartment we went for
dinners. They lived with their grandparents in a huge
apartment. Then there was dear old Grandmere who spoke no
English albeit such a friendly soul. Plus Simone's cousin
Manon Stephan who had to work and was a dress designer, as
well as her fiance Robert Stephan and one of my beaus, an
English banker, who used to take us out too. We had such very
happy times. Simone was the liveliest wire one could imagine.
I was eventually a bridesmaid at Manon and Robert's marriage.
Simone had
an Aunt who was a famous French actress of the Comedie
Francaise, Cecile Sorel, acting mostly in plays such as
Moliere's. She was not married then, but was great friends of
the Comte de Segur. She was very kind to my Mother and I when
my Mother was in Paris and took us to the theatre in her car
and drove us home later. When I stayed with Simone she invited
us all to dinner one night. I remember I had no evening dress,
just a black silk afternoon one with a red rose at the waist
and my hair down as usual. Mme.Sorel couldn't speak English,
still she was enchanting to me and took me to her room and put
my hair up with comb,s putting the red rose from my frock in
my hair (I never wore my hair down again!). (Boo hoo - ed).
The
apartment was magnificent with marble floors and Persian rugs
and lovely antique furniture. The dinner table was marble with
cloth of gold covering it and at one end of the huge dining
room was a fountain playing over masses of flowers. Everyone
was so kind to me, a little 18-year-old girl from London.
Later Simone came to stay with me in London but somehow,
probably because of her Catholic religion, the suitable men I
could introduce her to shied off except as a distant friend.
No-one would think of marriage, it seemed. Nevertheless we had
great fun and one fine July night after dancing with friends,
Simone and I danced all the way down Piccadilly at midnight
with our party.!
A friend of
mine, Michael Franklin, invited us to Oxford University
O.U.D.S. Ball (Oxford Union Dramatic Society). We went by
train and changed at a hotel, as it was a fancy dress Ball. We
danced all night followed by breakfast on the river in a punt
to arrive home with balloons hanging out of the train windows
and fast asleep in a corner.
We also went
to a magnificent Ball at the Van den Berg's house in
Kensington Palace Gardens, the margarine family. I had met
Elsie the daughter in Switzerland skiing. It was a wonderful
home and Simone looked lovely in brilliant red chiffon, a
frock given to her by her actress aunt.
During
several years I travelled in winter with my Mother. The first
long trip was to Argentina and back on the same ship SS Andes.
I was most impressed by my first view of a tropical land at
Santos, Brazil. We had made friends with two Nuns on the ship
and my Mother decided to go ashore for the day and take a car
drive as it was incredibly hot and humid. We drove all along
the beach on extremely hard sand, quite the best way to keep
cool for the day. The next stop was Rio which I feel now is
the most beautiful harbour in the world, with Sydney 2nd and
Vancouver 3rd. Coming in at dawn with the Sugar Loaf and other
mountains still half covered with mists and dozens of islands
all over the bay, it was a lovely sight. My Mother decided to
take a drive once more, so we collected the Nuns and set off
to the Sugar Loaf Mountain which has a huge statue of Our Lord
on the summit. Looking down from the mountain we were
astonished to see literally clouds of the brilliant blue
Brazilian butterflies huge in size forming a fluttering carpet
of blue.
We drove
back via Copacabana with its wavy lined pavements to the city.
My Mother wanted to see our shipping company. I had learnt
Spanish but not the South American variety and not Portuguese.
I tried Spanish whilst we walked in terrific heat for miles
until we found the address given us as 'Mala Real', This I
thought was Royal Mail Company, though turned out to be a
suitcase and leather goods store - 'Mala' being a similar word
for mail and trunks or suitcases. We were so hot and tired we
went back to the ship.
Our next
stop was Montevideo where fortunately we had some Spanish
American friends, the Herrera family. This family we met at
the top of Vesuvius in Italy first and we were all drooping
coins into lava to recover as souvenirs. Senor Herrera was a
newspaper owner and Leader of the Opposition in Uruguay's
Parliament and remained so all his life, unfortunately never
regaining power. He was a charming Spanish aristocrat. They
had sadly lost their eldest daughter in childbirth and Senora
Herrera took to black clothes for ever afterwards, as was the
custom. Senor Herrera was amusing and they all spoke excellent
English. He remarked to my Mother, 'Ah! You English, you all
say how you love England so much yet you are always abroad
travelling'! His second daughter, Hortensia, became a great
friend of mine and still is, although we have only met three
times since those days (one could never stop Olde Ducke from
writing dozens of letters weekly in later life - ed). She was
about three years younger than I was. It was lovely to meet
them all again and to go driving around Montevideo. We felt a
little lost in Buenos Aries where we knew no one, still we
appreciated the beautiful city.
On board our
ship was a South American family of father and 10 young
children, whose wife had died in Europe. Although passengers
tried to help him, it was a major project to get them al lined
up on deck ready for a meal. They were all dressed in black
down to the smallest toddler.
My Mother
and I also visited Hong Kong. It was April, a great mistake
because of the heat. My Mother suffered with her heart and we
had to find a ship and set off for Canada and a cooler
climate. It was delightful in British Columbia to see the
azaleas and other flowers after the heat of Hong Kong. My
Mother had visited Canada in her youth, accompanying two
sisters who were very delicate and whom she paid for with her
portrait painting. It was about 1890 and I have a Canadian
news article on the three Miss Baldry's trip across the
Rockies by train - quite an event for three young ladies. I
believe her sisters remained in Canada.
During these
years I had seen Harry Howden, the naval officer I met in
Switzerland, once or twice and he wrote frequently. My Mother
was increasingly ill with her heart trouble, but my Father and
Aunts liked him. However on one of our travels I met a very
good looking boy called Coard Squarey, whose home was in
Salisbury. As he was in the P&0 Company office he moved
around the world and had been to Australia and the U.S. We
were both keen on sports and I doubt if we had many interests
in common. However, we became engaged, I think on the rebound
on my part from falling very much in love with another
Dutchman, Otto Reuchlim. Though as Courd was in their
Diplomatic Corps, we parted because, as far as I could see, I
would practically never be back in England or see my parents.
Coard was to go to the U.S. for the P&O soon after our
marriage. I knew it would not work out well and he was too
nice a person to have his life messed up by me. He adored
children and was very keen to have a family - sadly enough the
girl he finally married never had any children.
Our
engagement had been broken for some time when my Mother became
so ill she was in a nursing home out of London. One night the
specialist sent for my Father and I at midnight as she was
unconscious and died that night. I had always adored her and
it was the saddest night. Her sisters, who took no notice of
her in her lifetime, all wrote to me asking for her clothes
etc. - it was horrible.
I went for a
little car tour in my Sunbeam coupe car my father had given
me, for a week in Devon with my friend Kathleen Archer. The
car broke down at Fingal Bridge on Dartmoor and we had to 2
days for spare parts. My father sent on a cable to me from
Harry Howden asking me to marry him; he was in China with his
ship. I asked my Father if I could go out to see him to make
sure and he said 'Yes' and suggested Kathleen travel with me.
She phoned her Mother who said 'Yes but take your warm
underclothes with you'! We returned to London and as I felt I
would not be returning home, I packed up everything I had.
My Father
had booked to go a voyage to South Africa and my Brother was
leaving for New York to marry Winifred, a Canadian nurse he
had met some time previously. They were to return to London.
We left behind Hilda Lyon who had been my parent's maid for
some years and who was to immigrate to Australia after the 2nd
War to live in Adelaide, where she is now (d 1988 - ed).
Unfortunately she did not know my Mother except when she was
ill the final few years. Breakup of our home life was
dreadfully sad and I was glad my Father could get to South
Africa and see our cousins there. My Brother and I sent radio
messages to each other from ship to ship. It was February and
Kathleen and I travelled to Montreal from Greenoch in
Scotland, a freezing cold voyage with thick fogs off
Newfoundland, foghorns blaring and immense seas. We battled to
walk on deck and got nicknamed the two 'Miss Walkers'. Finally
it was too rough to do anything but lie down and cling on to
everything even though we were never seasick. We crossed
Canada by rail: I can remember at one stop getting out at
Calgary and walking up to the engine to get the smile on my
face unfrozen! We got a second ship to Shanghai and had anti
typhoid injections on board, which made me very ill.
Harry's ship
the HMS Mantis, was up the Yangtze River, so Kathleen and I
stayed in the Cathay Hotel in Shanghai built by Sassoon
family. Lots of people to dance with, either naval officers or
friends and who should turn up but Coard Squarey from the
P&0 Company and also Arthur Phillips, another old friend,
both bachelors still, Phil from Borneo where he was manager of
the North Borneo Trading Company. However, finally the Mantis
arrived for a day or two and Harry and I got engaged and it
was decided we would Marry in Hankow, as the ship would have a
week's leave there. So Kathleen and I set off on a river
steamer the four-day trip to Hankow. Harry and I were married
the following day (1931) at the British Consulate and a Church
of England, with only Kathleen and the Mantis' officers there
plus some other naval officers from the flagship HMS Bee,
including the Admiral and Captain Kekewicz.
Kathleen
flew back to Shanghai. Harry had rented a friend's little
bungalow for the weekend and then we went to a small
missionary hotel. After four days a cable had been sent from
London by Barclays Bank, my Trustees, telling me my Father
died at his London Home. Later Hilda Lyon told me he had been
eating his dinner and when she entered the room he had died.
There was an autopsy and it was a terrible shock, as I would
never have left London at that time had I known he was unwell.
No one knew. I had only left three months before, when already
a woman client of my Father's firm and a niece of Lloyd
George's had been telephoning the house whilst I was still
home hoping to get him to marry her. She wanted money for
political causes I think. It was very fortunate for him that
he had not done so, as his health was evidently fragile and to
go off on a political campaigning trail would have meant the
end for him. She sent me a five page cable asking for money
and saying he had left a will in her favour. However Barclays
searched everywhere and never found anything at all - so I
gave her one of his very valuable antiques as a memento.
The night
Harry told me of my Father's death, of course I was extremely
upset with shock and being in a strange country. Incredibly he
went to a Russian nightclub without me!
The men on
the ship were extremely kind. The First Lieutenant Glyn
Langley, has been a lifelong friend and godfather to one of
our sons (Merlin). First we went up river to Changsha, on a
tributary river of the Yangtze.
I had to
travel on the Mantis, an unheard of thing in the British Navy
for a woman, as no river steamers went up there. The water was
so low in summer that the ship ground on the bottom many times
and I can't imagine how we arrived. Changsha was a big city.
We lived with other foreigners on an island in the middle of
the river. The other foreigners included the British Consul,
the British American Tobacco Company and reps. of various oil
companies. I particularly liked a Mrs.Belbin, the Swedish wife
of the B.A.T. rep. She taught me how to do draw and thread
work such as the Swedish do on linen and recipes for delicious
biscuits and Liver paste.
Daring the
day till our husbands got home we were more or less confined
to our houses or compounds because of vicious 'Wonk' dogs who
snarled and snapped at one's heels if one went out at all.
Harry took me across the river and a long walk into the
mountains before breakfast one day. Again dogs were a pest. We
met very nice German missionaries, a Dr.Eitel and his wife who
ran a mission hospital in the city that we visited. But it was
a terrible day, as the Chinese were fighting each other, one
side Bandits, the other side Chang Kai Shek's men Several had
been killed and their heads stuck up on staves high on walls.
The incredible noise and dirt, smell and spitting in the
narrow streets cannot be described. I gather missionaries get
used to but it almost nauseates one.
I felt I had
to do something, so I got a very old man to come in and sit
for me to draw, until he didn't turn up and I found out his
relatives disliked him having a portrait done - they regarded
it as against their religion. Luckily I got the daughter of
our laundry woman, a 12-year-old girl, to come and I did a
watercolour of her. These 2 pictures I still have.
One night
everyone was at the Club on the Island and someone gave Harry
a pewter mug full of what he thought was gin and tonic. He
tossed it straight down. But it was Vodka and something mixed.
He became completely drunk, the first time I had ever seen
anyone drunk. It was snowing and I had to get him home along a
narrow path by the river. At last we arrived, at only so far
as far as the sitting room in the rented bungalow as I
couldn't drag him further. So I covered him up and it wasn't
cold there where he stayed asleep till mid morning! It was a
terribly cold winter and we had to seal up every window with
sticking plaster and heat even the toilet seat before one
could use it. However, spring comes all in a day and the
leaves come out and before you know it's terribly hot and
summer. The humidity is unbelievable then, with oil stoves in
cupboards to dry them.
The river
now rose and the ship left and we stopped once to visit a
Catholic Mission where their bishop and two brothers had been
rescued from bandits by my husband in a boat, so we had real
Sherry from Spain and Madeira cake with them. They were very
informal and amusing.
I had been
very unwell in Changaha, a form of dysentery. Dr.Eitel the
Missionary Doctor said I should not remain during the summer
in the Yangtze Valley. Thus he arranged for me to go up to
Kuling to stay with some Scandinavian Missionaries at their
summer cottage whilst the Mantis went on up to Chungking. The
Yangtze was in flood, a major disaster with thousands of
Chinese drowned and swept away, the harvest useless. Normally
they had two harvests a year as it was so fertile there and
food was excellent with all the vegetables they grew and
ducks, teal and tern wild along the Yangtze. It was
fascinating to see the Chinese taking off their padded winter
clothing and using just their indigo dyed trousers and either
white tops or indigo. They would de-lice themselves and their
clothing after the long winter.
At Changsha
on the island I had witnessed a dreadful scene. One day a
great deal of shouting came from the river bank and a crowd of
Chinese were dragging a Chinaman along the rocks bordering the
river with chains and hitting him with leather whips. I sent
one servant to tell my husband on the ship, but when he came
he said he could not interfere with China's own laws of
justice. It appeared the man had only stolen a few bits of old
clothing - this is probably why there is so little stealing in
China.
At Hankow I
met a distant cousin of mine who was a missionary nurse there
and she took me out to see the vast encampment of refugees
from the flooded river. They were in open straw huts, really
only a roof of straw and she showed me the only food the
missionaries could give them, a small bowl of rice per day. So
many of them had tuberculosis and others dysentery. My cousin
also developed TB and later had to be sent back to England.
I was put on
a river steamer to go down to Nanking and up to Kuling. I was
the only white person on board and my next door neighbour at
meals was an aged Chinese professor type of learned person.
Oddly enough the food was European style with knives and forks
and spoons and the poor old gentleman did not know how to
manage without chopsticks, so scooped his fried egg with one
of his 3 inch long finger nails!
Bandits on
the riverbanks fired upon us, though as the river was so wide
in floods we were not badly hit, yet it was impossible to have
windows or shutters open. The scenery is monotonous except far
up the river at Chungking gorges as well as small island rocks
with temples on top. At Nanking I was met by the naval officer
from the gunboat down there and put into a sedan chair with 4
bearers to go up the mountain as there was no other way.
Looking back on it all I really wonder how I survived the
various ordeals, coming straight from London speaking no
Chinese and often alone travelling. I was really very
frightened going up the narrow steep mountain path with a
precipice on one side. The bearers had to take rests often
and, as is their custom, would shout or laugh at each other. I
had no idea what it was about.
Soon we
arrived at Kuling, a very pretty village mostly built by
missionaries and finally at the Scandinavian's bungalow which
was on the highest slope above the township. There was a very
friendly Norwegian called Miss Vila Vinsness; a jolly fat
Swedish one, the most senior I thought; Miss Schuelberg; a
very thin and fanatical Norwegian. Finally a pretty young
Swedish one aged about 18 who eventually had to be sent home
as she contracted too many illnesses, finally TB - obviously
not missionary material, too soft and gentle for the hard life
down on the Yangtze. The Catholic Missionaries remained
throughout all the terrible hot summers down in the Valley
unless they fell ill. I felt much better in the cool
atmosphere and commenced painting again. They had a cute
little rock swimming pool surrounded by orange lilies and
lovely views. Very large hopping sort of spiders about 3"
long jumped around the rooms. I sent one back to the Natural
History Museum in London.
They sang a
great deal, mostly hymns or prayers so I tried to join in.
Unfortunately I contracted severe tonsillitis A Chinese
surgeon at a Mission Hospital took out my tonsils and I came
back in a sedan chair the same day, rather the worse for wear,
although the operation was evidently very well done.
A little
later my husband came up for a weekend. He told me nearly
everyone on the ship had boils and abscesses due to the damp
hot climate, and he was concerned about Glyn Langley who
seemed to have something wrong with his back. This turned out
to be schistosomiasis, a liver worm, from snails, which gets
into one's system through one's boots when walking on river
flats. He had been shooting duck. Eventually he had to return
to England as the disease disables one and the back becomes
completely bent over.
Later we
went down to very British Singapore for leave, which was
delightful. We stayed at a small hotel called 'The Tiny' with
a bedroom and sitting room, though it was not safe for me to
go out alone. One night we went to a Russian cabaret just
before Harry's ship went back up river where I contracted para-typhoid
and was in hospital for weeks, as at first they thought it was
influenza. I had had a water ice at the cabaret and it was
that which gave me the infection. I should have known better,
as we always drank distilled water etc. I shared a room with a
young New Zealand woman who happened to have known Harry in
their youth in Auckland. Her name was 'Karly' Muir also with
typhoid. She had been on a Pan Pacific Conference as a
secretary, though had to return to New Zealand when she felt
stronger. So we were very lucky to have been in the same room
and able to have someone to talk to. We remained friends until
I learnt of Karly's early death in New Zealand.
In Shanghai
we could buy wonderful books from England and the US. With no
domestic chores to do I read a great deal. Also the White
Russian shops were excellent. They would make frocks to
measure.
I went with
friends to see the real Chinese quarter where a little island
tea house and bridge over the lake, was where the Willow
Pattern designs were taken from (coincidentally our 1950s
house name in Turramurra, Sydney - ed). It was a terrifically
crowded part of the city and extremely noisy with really
fearful smells and everyone appeared to spend half their days
spitting, usually just behind one's back! The huge Cathay
Hotel was owned by the Sassoon banking family and the
so-called 'Concessions' were owned by various nationalities:
US, British, French, etc. and one really did not get to know
any Chinese people unless one was a missionary.
Shortly I
was strong enough to go back up-river and met the ship at the
port - Nanking I think. Again I could not go out alone. I was
the only naval wife up the river. In the afternoons we played
tennis and went to the usual Club. Once more I became ill and
had no idea what it was, except my back hurt. After about 4
days it was obviously jaundice and I had to go on a river
steamer to a Shanghai yet again. My husband departed on his
ship to go up river and paid all our servants including the
washerwoman.
As darkness
fell there was a terrific din in the courtyard and about 80
Chinese men all screaming at each other and shouting. My own
servant came running upstairs to my bedroom and told me all
the others were relatives and friends of the washerwoman who
wanted a large tip. I thought I had better not start giving
out money, as everyone would want some. I was really terrified
and had only a little white fox terrier belonging to the
Company we rented the bungalow from plus a large metal torch,
to defend myself. I sat up till dawn with all the screaming
and shouting below, having barricaded the door with a chest of
drawers. At dawn the Chinese 'Comprador arrived (Manager for
the Company) and he got out a huge leather whip to hit
everyone in sight thus clearing the courtyard in no time.
Moreover he had sent for help from the gunboat that had
replaced my husband's ship. Two big British sailors arrived to
guard me and take me down to my river steamer. It turned out
that my husband had tipped the washerwoman too well and
therefore they thought they could get more still for all her
relatives and hangers on! I have never been so terrified in my
life.
I stayed in
hospital in Shanghai until I was well and then it was time for
my husband to leave China (1932?). We came to Sydney on a
small passenger liner via Brisbane. I had heard a great deal
about Sydney from my husband and how he hoped we could find a
flat at Rose Bay, which I imagined was a little bay surrounded
with roses. When we came in the Heads and I saw thousands of
red roofs I was extremely disappointed, although I said
nothing. I was astonished at the beautiful light in Australia,
quite the most distinct impression in my memory.
We stayed
for about a week at 44 Macleay Street, Potts Point, at that
time a boarding house. There I chanced to meet an Australian
girl called Pat Denyer, whom I first met years before in
Switzerland. It turned out she had married an English banker
in Penang and that my friend Kathleen Archer had got off her
ship to stay with Pat on her way home from Shanghai to
England. Getting on the second ship she met Archie Russell
from Kuala Lumpur and they were married in England later.
Kathleen lived in Malaysia and had a son Tristan who still
lives there and runs the family business of silver and tin
mines also rubber plantations etc. Archie died of TB and
Kathleen returned to England with Tristan aged 16 months. When
we were in England for a short time I saw her in a flat at
Paddington before she went out to South Africa to attend to
more business interests her husband had had. Here she met
William Gemmill and finally married him to live in Rhodesia
where they had 2 girls and a boy, all now married, the girls
living in Rhodesia and David the boy living in England.
My husband
had some weeks leave due and we went up to the Blue Mountains.
It was August and we were frozen after the heat in China. My
Father gave me two hundred pounds for a wedding gift of
furniture for a future home and Harry suggested we use it on a
voyage to California on the Monterey. Itwas a wonderful ship
and we met a family Mr. and Mrs.Hill. He was advertising
manager of the Telegraph newspaper and became our friends for
years and their daughter Thelma in Sydney asked me to be
godmother to her daughter Leilani, who was born in Sydney in
wartime, whilst Thelma's husband was in India with the British
Indian Army.
In
California we visited friends of mine in San Francisco and
then took a bus to Los Angeles, stopping off at Carmel on the
way before catching our ship home.
At the end
of a week my husband had to join his Australian ship
Albatross, a Seaplane Tender (this part paid for Hobart - ed).
I was left in Australia knowing no one at all except Pat, who
went back to Penang and a woman called an Nell Merivale, a
former friend of my husband's whom I met only once.
My husband
was sent to England to bring out a destroyer (Vampire, see
"Service" Record) with several other naval men. I
was lucky in that I could see my old Aunts at Parkstone and my
cousin in Devonshire. We had a 'service' roomed apartment near
Harrod and had a really an enjoyable time. I even met once
more the Australian girl who had introduced us to each other
in Switzerland. She died of appendicitis soon after having a
baby daughter. I also met my old school friend Kitty Spence in
London with her husband, though she was always very busy, as
they went out a great deal.
I came back
to Australia on a cargo ship and my great friend Elaine
Hutcheson (he Chief Engineer in charge Vickers Docks Garden
Island during WW2, and she later managing Legacy - ed) was
also on the same ship. It was arranged that I should stay with
Eveline Vance, one or Harry's sisters in New Zealand whilst he
was still away from Australia. The ship went to Auckland and
by this time I was having our first baby (Patrick, 1934). We
had to travel overnight by train to Wellington. On the ship
Elaine and I went to the Fancy Dress Dance as a Victorian pair
with 'Boater' hats with a long flounced dress for me and 2
bikes made from my golf clubs with shoes for saddles!
In
Wellington I was so sad when Elaine had to leave for Sydney. I
was left alone with sister-in-laws I did not know. However
they were all 6 very kind to me and I liked their families. I
spent the time making all the clothes for our baby and we used
to all meet over in Wellington going to each other's homes.
The old family home unmarried sister Jessie lived in had large
sloping gardens, big rooms and a little square box tower room
on the roof.
Finally I
departed for Sydney not long before my baby was due. Harry had
a flat for us in the Astor building in Macquarie Street. I had
to find a Doctor and book in at Dilbur Hall. I was fortunate
in going to Dr.R.I.Farber. He and his wife became friends over
the years.
Soon I found
a little flat at Gladswood Gardens Double Bay where I met
other naval people, becoming friendly with one called Joan
Robinson whose husband was in the RN. He was out here for 2
years. Joan and I played tennis and golf together at Rose Bay
Golf Club, besides Bondi surfing near daily. We got badly
'dumped' at times and had no idea what the shark bell was for.
We were bathing when a lifesaver told us what he thought of us
for not coming out!
In January
the 'Albatross' went to Hobart town Tasmania, whilst Joan and
I went there on a coastal steamer. Joan was very good at
tennis and I discovered ladies could play 'Royal Tennis' at a
Club if it was very early before men started to play. So we
used to be on the covered court at 6am and play for 2 hours, a
game rather like squash with a larger court. In the afternoons
we all played golf, a lovely course as one could eat apples,
mulberries and mushrooms between holes! We also went for
drives to Port Arthur or up country to really enjoy ourselves,
except that Joan had started a baby and didn't feel very well.
In Sydney I
had become friends with old friends of Harry's, Dusty and Ula
Rhodes (he and Harry initial Commanders of Sydney naval base
HMAS Penguin - ed), who had a cottage nearby up Ocean Street,
Woollahra. They had one child and Ula had her second that year
at Dilbur Hall, a small private hospital near by. Joan had her
daughter Susan there and by this time I was going to have a
baby too. Harry returned and we arranged to rent Eustace
Holroyd's Darling Point house. It was really far too big for
us despite lovely views. Patrick was born not long afterwards
(5/6/34) at 9-1/2 lbs. Soon my eldest sister in law Amy came
to stay with us for a while. Harry was sent to Flinders Naval
Depot (oct '34) - when Patrick was about 4 months. We had the
Commander's house as Harry had been promoted to Commander in
China (31 Dec '31). We badly felt the cold again, so we had a
little stove put in a verandah upstairs next to our bedroom.
The gardens were lovely (still were in mid 1990s when we
visited to get photos - ed). There was a sort of cage made of
wire screen netting on a frame and just enough room for two to
sit inside for afternoon tea. It preserved us from mosquitoes
rampant day and night in the T.Tree and mud flats. It was here
I became a great friend with Harley and Killie Wright (he into
WW2 submarines + brief skipper HMAS Canberra, d late 1990s -
ed) also Lois Glover a friend of Harry's in Melbourne, we had
a dance for everyone in the house. Supper was kippers and
waffles, Harry's choice - sounds odd but was quite nice.
Later I had
a miscarriage there and had to go for 2 or 3 days to a
Melbourne Hospital. It was just at the news of the Duke of
Windsor's abdication I recall.
Later Harry
was told he would go to England for the Coronation Service in
the Abbey for King George V1. As I was having a second baby
(Merlin) we were going to New Zealand to stay at Harry's
family home Furneaux Lodge, Endeavour Inlet for 3 weeks
(Captain Cooks navy base, this now exquisite resort we visited
1999 - ed). Then I was to go to Wellington for the baby and
Harry would come there before shipping to England. I had been
down at Endeavour Inlet with Harry; it was a lovely place and
Harry had put an unemployed ex-naval petty officer Barker and
his wife there to caretake. They had cows and chickens and I
'bought fruit trees, paid for a lot of furniture and also
alterations to the house such as a bathroom, water heater and
a breakfast room on the roof, plus a new room for the Barkers
and their children.
Aline
Cathie, Amy Webb, Ada Howden, Jessie and Harry all remained at
the Inlet with their children, but I had to go back to
Wellington 3 weeks before my second baby was due as the doctor
insisted. I stayed in a very lonely hotel, except that Mary
Pears, Harry's second sister, called to see me once or twice
and was really kind. The night Merlin was born Harry had
arrived in the morning from the Inlet saying "I knew I'd
be here in time".' We were at a long film, out I had to
go to hospital that night. It was terribly overcrowded and I
was put on boards over a bath, with one pillow. However Merlin
arrived satisfactorily. He couldn't think of a name, so Harry
chose that one from a local library 'Idylls of the King!
Harry left
for England and I was put on the ferry to return to the Inlet
with Merlin with Merlin, who was 3 weeks' old. I worked very
hard there, making a garden, even ploughing with a bullock to
make beds! Also helped Barker put up a telephone pole. I put
on gumboots and stood in the stream for hours getting stones
big enough to make crazy paving at the back of the house to
keep things dry in winter. I used to row the boat across the
Inlet to get our mails or go fishing. I had a Karitane nurse
there, as in naval life there is so much entertaining to do
one has to have permanent help with children. It grew colder
and colder and we became almost housebound, I was exceedingly
lonely. None or the in-laws asked us to stay, so finally I
rang old family friends of theirs, Holmes family of 3 maiden
ladies. Two ran their own school and the other kept house.
They told me at once to all pack up and come stay with them
till my ship left for England. There Annie, Eva and Breta
Holm, of Swedish ancestors. The family owned the Holm Shipping
line and had known the Howdens all their lives (we travelled
as only2 passengers on Holmburn to New Caledonia, New Hebrides
'68 - ed).
They were so
kind to us and saw us off on cargo ship for England (1937?).
Harry had booked us for it to sail via Cape Horn - thank
goodness it finally went via Panama and the East Coast of the
U.S. As it had iron decks I was fearful of Patrick slipping
into the sea. Merlin used to be out on deck in his pram
covered with coal dust from the funnels. We had 2 days in
Panama staying in a hotel on shore as heat was terrific in the
docks loading cargo. Very pretty in the gardens there though
the City was extremely crowded and dirt. Panama Canal is
always beautiful and fascinating. Thus even in the intense
heat one cannot go inside and possibly miss seeing the lovely
scenery and various locks and the Culebra Cut through rock
face.
The next
place we docked at was Norfolk in Virginia (1937) to coal,
thence New York. Here my friend Kitty Spence met the ship and
so did the Everest Haights whom I had only met once before.
They were friends of my Father's. Kitty first drove us to her
flat in New York. I had never seen anything like it. The
bathroom had original black ink drawings of street scenes all
over it at all angles! Then we went to Sands Point on Long
Island where we met her husband of that time and their baby
boy Robin who was exactly Merlin's age. All the nurseries had
to be burglar proofed because of the likelihood of kidnap of a
wealthy child. Several friends wandered in and out 'like a
hotel' Kitty called it. Her husband was one of the four Lehman
brothers, bankers of New York and had a wonderful art
collection. Kitty's 3 daughters, Wendy, Helen and Kaywin, by
her first husband, were also there - 3 very pretty little
girls who lived in a bungalow in the extensive gardens with
their governess. I felt it was not a very happy home, yet
concluded that could be because I was unused to such wealth or
people who lived with it. But nothing changes Kitty and she
was just the same as in our days at Roedean. She had a studio
in another little cottage and painted wonderful portraits of
the girls. She also wrote poetry and was very gifted and
attractive.
I set sail
for England once more and Harry had got us one of these odd
little 2 rooms per floor houses in Philimore Terrace in London
with a tiny garden. He was in Intelligence Division of the
Admiralty. We had a delightful Austrian girl Maria, as cook.
Unfortunately the Karitane woman for the children never got on
with anyone. Moreover Maria had been brainwashed by Hitler to
join the "Youth through Joy"' or some such movement,
so she left and we had a succession of hopeless domestic
helps, which was difficult as I had to entertain.
Merlin was
christened at Brompton Parish Church with my godfather present
and Glyn Langley also. His other godfather was Stribling
Snodgrass, an American friend of Harry's.
One night
Harry said we must ask some Russians for dinner. One was
Admiral Orloff. His ship was at Portsmouth. When I asked why
he had to come on that night Harry said because he's being
sent back to Russia and. will be shot! Apparently he had
allowed his men ashore in Portsmouth where they had a very
good time, though Russians do not like that and he was thus to
be killed. It was an awful dinner party knowing what I did.
We became
friendly with the Swedish naval people of the name of Boldt-Christmas;
in fact all the Scandinavians were charming. We went to one
dinner given by, I think, Romanian Ambassador and his wife - a
very formal candlelit dinner for about 20 people. I was really
perplexed as to what to talk about seated next to a foreigner
I had never seen before - still it was an experience.
Unfortunately
somehow or other Merlin got septicaemia and it affected the
meninges of the brain for which he nearly died and would have
but for the fact that the Germans had developed antibiotic
pills just recently to eventually cure him after a lumbar
puncture. He had been a plump and placid baby and because I
breast fed him for 7 months he put up a lot of antibodies
which helped. The Karitane nurse was a tremendous help at that
time in helping save his life.
We all went
for a holiday up to Harry's Aunt and Uncle, Admiral and
Mrs.Harry Niblett (my middle name - ed) in North Wales, their
daughter Constance is Patrick's Godmother. A lovely old stone
house in beautiful gardens, but oh: so cold in winter. Old
Uncle Harry was a real 'old salt' and I believe was in a siege
of Paris, though when and how I don't know (didn't he fire on
own side? - ed). He used to swear like a trooper and
thoroughly upset Aunt Ada who was a very well brought up
Scottish lady. Unfortunately their only son died of TB soon
after. We went about in a pony trap and visited elderly
neighbours and people in the village where Merlin got much
better.
Harry later
was told to visit some of the countries he was working with ie:
Romania, Hungary, Yugoslavia and Czechoslovakia. So we sent
the children down to my Aunts at Parkstone who were delighted
to see them as they could not do so often, whilst we set off
for Prague by train. As we had to change trains at Nuremburg,
we had breakfast at the railway buffet. An immense crowd was
outside lining the street several deep with the restaurant
full of army officers. Presently there was terrific cheering.
We asked the army officers what for and they said for the
Fuhrer Hitler. So we stood up and saw him drive slowly past in
an open army vehicle saluting in his uniform without any
shield against possible assassins. At that time he had not
attacked Czechoslovakia, nor Poland I think. Had I known what
would happen in the following years I could have thrown a bomb
at him easily from my seat!
Their Prime
Minister Masaryk in Prague had just died and all the shops had
his photograph draped in black in their windows; he was much
loved. Prague is a fascinating city, some old streets almost
medieval, including the street of the alchemists with
cobblestones and little bow windows with quaint gables.
Everything was very clean and the countryside looked inviting
if we had had time to explore it. The people also were very
nice, sensible, calm and jolly.
We went from
Prague to Budapest, one of the loveliest cities on the
Continent. We stayed at a famous hotel overlooking the Danube,
the 'Gellert' which had a swimming pool with waves. We went to
nightclubs, which were really perfect of their kind for good
food, excellent dances and pleasant rooms. We liked the
goulash so much and their wines. They are a fun loving gay
people by nature and there was an amusement park on an island
in the Danube much frequented by everyone. The buildings,
State ones included, were magnificent, only problem is that
the Danube is not blue!
The hotel
was magnificent though dozens of fleas in the beds! The
general atmosphere is rather French. We went on by train to
Belgrade in Yugoslavia. It was hard to find people speaking
English, though everything, hotels and all, were very clean.
We went a drive to see the magnificent sculptures at a little
distance outside the city done by one sculptor Mestrovic.
These were over life size and rather modern for their time.
One reached them along a perfect, very wide highway (Autobahn)
built, we discovered later, for and by Hitler to his armies in
the future.
In the train
again to Romania, somehow Harry broke the glass on a table in
our compartment and refused to pay for it, despite wildly
gesticulating train officials and guards. I have no idea why
he did not want to, as he had definitely dropped something on
it. I thought we would be hauled off to gaol in Romania! We
only stayed about 2 days there as we found both the capital
and the people unpleasant. The higher class ones had all been
educated in France whilst the others appeared to be more or
less gipsies. The architecture was very French. One night we
had to meet a naval fellow, at least I presumed so, in a Park
and I was supposed to translate for Harry as the man spoke
French (I've been trying to ascertain his naval spying
activities - ed). As it was all about destroyer specifications
and so forth I really could not help much. We returned to
Budapest most gratefully and enjoyed further days there having
fun in the amusement park and visiting places of interest
before returning to England to pick up the children.
We all
returned to Australia together on an Orient Liner, not a very
interesting trip (nanny was Gagga; this must have been when I
fractured my skull on door water-excluder - ed). The boys had
meals in the nursery dining room, so I did not see enough of
them for my liking, whilst we had meals when they could play.
I had sold nearly all my father's antiques, except some
porcelain and Persian rugs, in London in order to purchase a
house for ourselves in Sydney, so we brought everything we
wanted out with us. We rented a large house in Fairfax Avenue,
Bellevue Hill, to spend days and days searching for a suitable
house to buy. Harry wanted large mansions such as the one at
the end of Darling Point that would have been quite impossible
for me to run.
Finally, we
had 4 or 6 people to dinner, I remember the Farncombs (warship
skipper - ed) there and Harry looked out of a window and
pointed to an old house at 49 Wolseley Road, Point Piper some
distance away and said 'I've bought that one today'.' I had
not even seen it, but evidently he was tired of looking! Next
day we went to visit and there were two families in two flats
below with one man in a basement. Obviously there would have
to be loads of alterations and renovations as it was very old.
I think it
was at this time that Harry was due for sea. Auntie Alice was
seriously ill with cancer in England. So I cabled my Auntie
Edith I could come over and put the boys at Silver Waves
(stolen generation! - Yuk - ed) nice boarding house for
children at Cronulla. I went back by cargo ship to see my
aunties who had had a great deal of my upbringing in World War
I and of whom I was so fond. My Auntie Alice died soon after I
returned to Australia.
The
political situation was becoming worse, with Germany very
threatening, so much so that I telephoned Harry, who had
arrived in Sydney unexpectedly, and told him everyone was sure
war would come and should I try for a ship out of Norway as
none were available from England. He was astonished that
everyone felt so seriously in England, though told me to get
out quickly. The only way was in a German plane via Frankfurt
and Copenhagen to Oslo, thence a Norwegian cargo ship. People
did not fly so much then for long distances.
The plane
was black and silver, I remember, with a very poker faced
stewardess. On board was a one-legged Englishman with everyone
else German and Japanese (spies? - ed)! We ran into a terrible
thunder storm with lightning all round the plane which rose
and fell hundreds of feet at a time, causing our heads to hit
the roof or sides despite straps. I was terrified of the
lightning hitting the plane and I expect it was touch and go
in reality. I was so frightened I couldn't do anything and was
cold as ice, my mouth quite dry with fear. At last we came
down in Frankfurt where Stormtroopers took away my and the
Englishman's passport to usher us in through a different door
to the Japs. That Englishman asked me if I'd like a drink and
by then I could just talk again and told him I had been
terrified and he said everyone thought I looked quite cool and
calm so they didn't like to show fear! We thought we would be
kept in Germany with no passports. However, after the plane's
engines had started we were taken out on the tarmac by two
Stormtroopers and put in the plane before our passports were
returned! We were so glad to see Copenhagen and neutrality.
At Oslo I
stayed in a missionary hostel two days, waiting for my ship.
My dear old missionary friend Vila Vinsness had put me into
the hostel and taken me a ride up a funicular railway up a
mountain to a lovely feast of wild strawberries and cream in a
little tea house at the top. It was the last time I was to see
her, sadly enough.
On the cargo
ship were several Australians and when we reached Cape Town we
all elected to go by train up to Johannesburg then down to
Durban to rejoin our ship there (seems like I'd been S.A.
before late 1940s - ed). So we saw a little of the country. I
wore slacks, I remember and a Boer woman in the Transvaal told
me what she thought of me dressed a man! In Durban I was met
by some of my friends from years before, specially 'Maggie'
Sanders, married and living there. We had a great time before
my ship sailed.
Back in
Sydney we rented a small flat nearly opposite the house I had
bought on Point Piper, so that I could keep an eye on
alterations going on and the boys loved Lady Martin's Beach.
But War broke out almost immediately. Harry's ship, HMAS
Hobart, was off to sea almost the second day. The boys and I
went along to a Wolseley Road lookout to see the ship
disappearing off to war. I felt terrible with two little boys
to care for. Luckily of course we had the house and not nearly
as bad as many sailors' wives who had not so much to live on
as we had.
They took so
long altering and fixing the top flat of the house that
finally I moved in, although unfinished. That soon hurried
things along.
With the
boys at school, I went with Elaine Hutcheson to see if there
was anything we could do by volunteering. However, everyone
was much younger and without children. So we both worked at
the Naval Auxiliary in George Street, near Martin Place.
Elaine mostly packed parcels and bales of knitted clothes for
the men whilst I learnt the knitting machines at a factory,
later teaching on them (many based in our home - ed). Also one
day a week I made beds and cleaned rooms at a hostel for
overseas officers in Macquarie Street. I had to take my little
boys with me there, but we had a good play in the Botanic
Gardens, or went to the Museum or Ballet it there was time.
Elaine and I
joined a group working for the Naval War Auxiliary making toys
for children. These were unobtainable during the war. We got
old coffee tins from the U.S. troops and I painted the picture
or pattern outsides whilst Elaine did the plain parts. Once I
put a Walt Disney design on one. Because we had a little
shopfront in Rowe Street, a Walt Disney agent saw the design
and told us it was copyright! We made these into sand buckets
for children, with Captain Hutch' coming in to mount wire
handles which he called 'Handles by Hutcheson'. I made some
wastebaskets too and we even had some orders in advance.
I had no car
so it was exhausting bringing home all our food up from Double
Bay shops to the hill up on Point Piper (actually my job alone
most often, via tram or WALKING - ed). One day I found the
boys using their trolley cart to make money by saying it was
for the Red Cross and that they were pulling parcels up the
hill for people! I made them give it to the Red Cross
(stinkers - ed).
One day in
the City I saw a news poster saying Destroyer sunk' but it
wasn't the Hobart. With my friend Elaine Hutcheson I arranged
an afternoon tea party for all our ship's wives at Cahills,
seating them all at tables marked with the suburbs nearest
their homes. They were delighted to meet others they had not
known.
Another time
I visited all I could, in particular one obviously very poor
wife who was up in one room near Centennial Park in bed with a
brain fever. I got help for her in that terrible place - only
one gas cooking ring and no heating.
I had all
our officer's wives to dinner or lunch from time to time and
when HMS Ramillies, a huge cruiser, came in and many of us
were asked on board, I found that the Admiral Tom Baillie knew
Harry. So he came to dinner with me and we used to surfing at
Bondi before breakfast. Also dancing with others at Prince's
nightly sometimes. He was keen on sketching and used to paint
on the beach in front of our house. It was good for relaxation
after warfare.
There were
many enjoyable nights at Prince's, including one with Hutch
and Elaine and many officers of the U.S. Navy, including
several of their medical psychiatrists. I asked one of them
how they treated their men and he said 'put them into 2
categories - the worst in 1, the next best in 2 and the
psychiatrists all in the best class!'
Hutch and
Elaine and I went to the Ballet - which somehow was out here -
so of course to the Tivoli Theatre to see Mo - or in fact
anyone who could make us all laugh.
I used to
see Mr. and Mrs.Hill, who also lived on Point Piper and the
Dangar family on the hill. Thelma Hill had married and gone to
India, though returned to Sydney to have her baby daughter
later on. The Hobart was in the Red Sea in a terrible climate
for months directing the Somaliland evacuation of Scottish
regiments replete with all their mess silver! As the Hobart
was to have a 'rest' refit leave (Dec '40) in Ceylon, Harry
asked me to fly over. I put the boys at Silver Waves again
(wot stolen generation? - ed) and got on a plane. I hated
flying so much at that time, I got off the plane in Singapore
to change to a ship (before Pearl Harbor - ed).
I had a
cabin with a very nice English girl, wife of an English army
officer in Hong Kong who said they were still playing polo up
there. Arrived in Ceylon to stay at the big hotel on the beach
awaiting the ship. Unfortunately the Tropics invariably bring
back a form of dysentery; however, I did not stay in bed and
friends of Harry's, Hope and Hugh Urquhart, were so kind and
hospitable to me. He was manager for P&0 Line there. |